Introduction to a legend
This will likely be the first in a series because I am really deeply enjoying researching this incredible designer.
I first encountered this designer in Minerva vol. 76, Fashions in Hand Knits. I was adding patterns to the Ravelry database, as one does, when I came across something odd. Attribution.
Modern patterns almost always have an author. People love credit! But in vintage knitting and crochet patterns, there was rarely any name associated with designing the patterns. They are always simply credited to the publisher or yarn manufacturer.
There were three of her designs in that book: the V-Line Spectator two-piece dress, Southern Holiday two-piece dress, and the Day and Night one-piece dress. Disregarding that a two piece dress is just a skirt and a top, my interest was piqued.
The three Audrea of Hollywood designs from Minerva volume 76, published in 1948.
I searched on Ravelry for other patterns by her and came across just two more: Criss-Cross dress appearing in Columbia vol. 112 and Fern Fantasy appearing in Minerva vol. 73. Beyond that, there wasn’t a ton to go on. Unlike modern recipes and patterns where the author natters on for paragraphs, in the books themselves there was no information about Audrea or any other contributor to pattern design. I just did a general search (Duck Duck Go, because it lets me opt out of AI bless them) and found this blog post from 2007 where the author was clearly looking through and photographing their personal print copy of Minerva vol. 73 and commenting on some of the fun designs.
Of the Fern Fantasy, they wrote:
This outfit was supposed to be special because it was designed by a Hollywood designer, Audrea of Hollywood, who I have never heard of but will look up later.
I would imagine it was a difficult search in 2007. But what was even more interesting was this comment left on the post:
theresa said…
Audrea of California is my step-grandmother. She had a yarn shop on Rodeo Drive in the 30s & 40s and designed knits for Joan Crawford, Paul Newman, and other big names of the time. Beautiful stuff! I hope I can find the pattern book you have b/c I don’t have many of her patterns.
October 15, 2008 at 8:49 AM
Another clue! I know from doing local history research that one of the best places to start a search is a city directory or phone book. I didn’t find anything looking through Los Angeles phone books, then it hit me: Rodeo Dr. is in LA county, but it’s in the city of Beverly Hills! It’s own municipality with its own directories, many of which the Library of Congress has digitized! Since the commenter mentioned the 30s, I started with 1934-1940. I looked in two ways: in the beginning section with everything listed alphabetically, and browsing the category listings. Since she was a knitwear designer, I searched through the listings for clothing designers, women’s clothing retailers, and yarn sellers.
Eventually I found her in the July 1938 telephone book!
The store is listed as “Audrea Importer” and at that time she was located at 208 N. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills. They are listed there through at least October 1940. The collection is missing 1941-1942 directories so I don’t know when she moved but in 1943 the store is listed at it’s 270 N. Rodeo Dr. location!
She at that location at least until 1945. In the 1948 directory she’s listed back on Beverly Dr. but at 169 S. Beverly Dr. In 1955 the store is at 9555 Wilsire Blvd. The next available telephone book is 1959, and the store is now listed at 9542 Santa Monica Blvd. but there was also this lovely ad in the “Knitting Instruction” section:
Individual designing! I think it would be incredible to go into a yarn store and have something custom knit for me. My colors, my body, my style! I particularly like that it lists dyeing as a specialty as this was still very much a “dyed to match” era. The one thing I think is odd is the name of the business, because “Audrea Importer” does not exactly scream yarn and custom knitwear design. Obviously SEO didn’t exist but I would have thought indicating your type of business was good practice no matter the era. The last available phone book is from 1963 when she ran a similar ad and was still at the same address.
This is the TIP of my research iceberg. I have looked at microfilm, I have been searching through online periodicals archives, I am contacting historical societies! This is just an introduction to Audrea and there will certainly be more. I have purchased a bunch of knitting books and I am having an absolute blast tracking down these patterns and information about Audrea herself.
To get your Audrea of Hollywood start, I recommend downloading Minerva volume 76, Fashions in Hand Knits from Stitch Book. That book has three of her patterns but also some other really incredible 1948 looks.
Stay tuned!
References
- California – White Pages and Yellow Pages – Beverly Hills – April thru September 1946. (n.d.) Retrieved from the Library of Congress, https://www.loc.gov/item/usteledirec01487/.
Note: this LOC listing says 1945-1954, but it’s a typo on the title image of the microfilm. - California – White Pages and Yellow Pages – Beverly Hills – December thru October 1940. (n.d.). Retrieved from the Library of Congress, https://www.loc.gov/item/usteledirec01485/.
- California – White Pages and Yellow Pages – Beverly Hills – February 1959. (n.d.). Retrieved from the Library of Congress, https://www.loc.gov/item/usteledirec01489/.
- California – White Pages and Yellow Pages – Beverly Hills – February 1963. (n.d.). Retrieved from the Library of Congress, https://www.loc.gov/item/usteledirec01490/.
- California – White Pages and Yellow Pages – Beverly Hills – July thru July 1944. (n.d.). Retrieved from the Library of Congress, https://www.loc.gov/item/usteledirec01486/.
- Minerva. (1948). Fashions in hand knits (vol. 76). James Lees & Sons Company.
- Redpajamamama. (2007, June 15). Retro knit Friday! [Blog]. It’s All About The Color. https://itsallaboutthecolor.blogspot.com/2007/06/retro-knit-friday_15.html
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